Beth and Mark's Gap Year 2014: Kosciuszco and the NSW south coast

27/1/2014 - 5/2/2014

It seems to have taken an age to get here, but we are finally on the road.

After some last minute rushing and teary goodbyes (no it wasn’t Kelvin or Mark crying) we got moving about midday on Monday and set a course for Buchan, for no particular reason other than it is about halfway to our first point of real interest (Kosciuszco National Park) and on the route of the Barry Way which I have been quite keen for some time to travel. The trip to Buchan was quite uneventful (which for a novice pair of touring folk like us is a happy outcome) and we arrived intact and unfrazzled. Parking and setting up the campervan also seemed amazingly smooth and was completed well within our target time of 30 minutes. Perhaps we are less “novice” than we thought? It was only when we sat back to admire our handiwork that we realized we had parked the van sideways across two sites. Oh well, we revert to novice – luckily the park was nearly empty, so no need to right our wrong.

Buchan was lovely. We didn’t avail ourselves of its major tourist attraction (caves), but we did take a couple of walks, saw a lyre bird, explored the old town and enjoyed the Caves Reserve which is chock full of beautiful old trees from all parts of the world, some of which I believe are heritage listed. Beth is normally unenthusiastic about non-native plants in national parks and uses derogatory terms such as “weed” or “scourge” when referring to them, but the trees in Buchan Caves Reserve somehow seemed to belong and escaped her ire.

On Tuesday after a morning walk we packed up the camper (again a precise and well co-ordinated exercise) and took off on the slow and steady climb to the top of Australia (in terms of altitude). The drive from Buchan to Jindabyne via the Snowy Mountain Highway and Barry Way is quite spectacular, but not for the faint hearted. Very narrow, fallen rocks, blind bends and steeeeeep edges without barriers. Luckily we did not encounter much oncoming traffic so we both survived and enjoyed the experience. My nice new tyres/wheels and freshly cleaned vehicles did look slightly the worse for wear though – I fear they may not look shiny and clean for some time to come.

We booked in for three nights at a National Parks campground in Kosciuszco National Park called Thredbo Diggings, and despite an adventurous and tiring drive and a less than perfect camp setup, we immediately set about ensuring that we kept up our 10kpd (that’s kilometres per day) walking commitment.

The Thredbo Diggings campground is very nicely situated on a lovely bend in the Thredbo River, and our bedroom took prime position with million dollar views down the river. Idyllic?? Seemingly so, except the march flies in this neck of the woods (which have the size and sound of a small aircraft, stings like a sabre and who seem to be oblivious to the fact that we are still a month away from March), seemed to think this was their territory and resented us being there – bites and slaps ensued. Eventually we figured out how to tolerate each other, but tensions remained high and fighting broke out from time to time.

Despite the March flies, we enjoyed our stay which was very much based on walking and swimming in the river (a most agreeable – and necessary given the heat and my propensity to sweat when driven to exercise – substitute for us not having showers for 3 days). The most memorable walk during our stay was to the summit of Mount Kosciuszco. All the tourist material suggested that we catch a chairlift to the top of Mt Crackenback from which it is a long (6km) but fairly evenly graded walk to the summit. Beth had different ideas though, and decided that instead we would forego the chairlift up and add a very steep 10km to the walk. Thankfully she agreed to take the chairlift down, so our total distance for the day was only 23km. Arduous but very enjoyable, and my reward was the first caffeine fix since leaving home, a cappuccino in the Eagle’s Nest restaurant, accompanied by Beth and the 500 files I had brought in with me. The waitress wrinkled her nose somewhat, but served us nonetheless.

Before we left the campground we thought we would squeeze in just one more walk. It was quite pleasant until we encountered a slithering visitor, which Beth almost stood on. Upon realizing her proximity to the snake, she calmly moved away in a dignified manner and waited 100 metres down the track whilst I figured out a way to get past the serpent which was now right in the middle of the path. Thankfully it moved on and I was able to pass. Usain Bolt would have been proud of the time it took Beth to create the 100 metre gap she created between her and the snake.

Friday morning we packed up and moved across the hill out of the Thredbo valley and into the Perisher valley. No river to cool off in the heat here (and it has been quite hot), but showers here so I guess that compensates. More walking of course – each one accompanied by some form of pesky native animal, the most consistent of which has been the bush fly. I have never seen as many flies as we saw on our walk to Blue Lake (a glacial lake past Charlotte Pass), I feared suffocation at the hands (or probably legs really) of a thousand flies. It took the gloss of an otherwise very satisfying walk.

You may have noticed that I have not arrived at a comfortable way to refer to our vehicles. Caravan, Campervan, Camper Trailer, Car, Truck, 4WD. I think that I need to be consistent so as not to confuse. I raised this concern with Beth, and suggested that perhaps we should name our vehicles. Beth pointed out that this is typical grey nomad behaviour, and given my views on becoming one of them it would perhaps not make sense to name our vehicles. She has a point, but has not solved my problem. I will have to ponder this one some more.

Sunday morning Beth surveys the landscape for signs of bushfires, and all looks clear so we strike out for the coast via the lovely Bega valley and settle on the small town of Tathra as the place to stay for a couple of nights. There was much agonising over this choice, particularly because we had a Wednesday morning appointment in Moruya (120km away) to have “the thing that we tow and sleep in” serviced, and making this appointment would involve a very early start, which despite having made early starts for 35 years, we do find undesirable. The decision to stay however was inspired, as the town was lovely and also provided us with a beautiful coastal walk through the Bournda National Park to Turingal Head. About 22 tiring kilometres, but well worth it – wonderful coastal views and numerous wildlife sightings (goanna and echidna the highlights). Beth was so impressed with our efforts that she allowed me a cake of my own choosing without (much) censure at the bakery we happened upon close to home (Apple pie with cream if you want to know – and very nice).

Up early on Wednesday to make our date with the service man (our trailer was built in Moruya, so we thought it would be opportune to have them check that everything was still well intact and to deal with a couple of small issues). Despite zombie like behaviour, we seemed to manage this pretty well. The van required a sleepover at the factory to allow paint to dry, so this gave us the opportunity to catch up with my cousin and his family who live in Tuross Heads (which is nearby) and to have a sleepover of our own. We had a great time enjoying human company other than our own and the brief novelty of a fixed abode.

Farewell to distant family and we are off again heading up the coast, this time to Kiama just for the evening, Another lovely and very interesting coastal town. I think that I rather like this part of the world. As I write this it is about 9:30PM and it is raining. Rather nice after all the heat we have encountered, but I hope it lets up tomorrow as we head towards Sydney to meet up with Beth’s brother, who will camp out with us for a couple of nights.

Time and technology have conspired against delivery of this blog in a timely fashion, but I guess it is what it is, so I won’t make promises regarding my next update.

I read an interesting brochure at Tathra which indicated that the official classification for our mobile abode is “Tent trailer”!!! I cannot bring myself to use that title, it really does not conjure up images commensurate with the class and robustness of our little contraption. I think that I will need to name my conveyances, despite Beth’s misgivings. I will talk this out and I am sure that Beth will see reason. When I next post we will have arrived at dignified names for our tow vehicle and our towed vehicle.